How to install glass Light Switch Covers, From Arnev Products, Inc.
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So, you are installing mirrored glass or clear glass light switch covers - outlet covers on the glass mirror in your bathroom or a new glass backsplash in your home? Well, it should be an easy accomplishment, and is not as difficult as you would think, so "do it right".
There are a few things to think about, and the first is that clear glass, or mirrored glass switch plates are flat on the backside, and not like a standard wall plate, which is concaved in the backside. If you think you just need to get out the screwdriver, and away you go, don't hold your breath, and you need to know a few things before you start.
There are two ways to attach this glass product to your receptacles, and you will see diagrams of both ways to do this below. So, choose which one is the best for your situation. In the first figure, we are going to use a duplex receptacle. Some have two screws and some only have one screw, but all the switches and receptacles work with the same method. Please follow the directions below, and the installation will be a breeze, so take your time and do it right.
Let's start by turning off the electricity to that switch or outlet, removing the existing plate from the wall, and unscrewing the electrical receptacle with the mounting screws. Then carefully pull the receptacle out of the box to give yourself some room to make the following adjustments below in section 2 to section 7, but make sure the power is off to that receptacle before you start pulling it out of the box.
This first method is recommended by professional installers.
But you might want to look at the second installation with our Screwgard Paintable Gaskets instead of this method.
1. Check to make sure that the facing surface of the conduit box fixture in the wall is flush with the wall, and secure that glass plate to the fixture.
2. If the box in the wall is recessed, you must install the screw spacer (Steps 4-7). Otherwise, by tightening the screws, you will pull the glass plate into the box in the wall, and this will cause it to crack or break.
3. Measure the recessed distance from the front wall surface to the conduit box flange, and it is very important that if the existing box in the wall is behind the tile backsplash or the mirrored glass, you will need to cut the vinyl tubes supplied to the desired length (maybe 1/8th or 1/2 inch). Pull out the electrical receptacle so the back sides of the mounting tabs, (or as we like to call them on a duplex receptacle the "Mickey Mouse Ears") are flush with the wall, mirror, or tile.
4. Cut the plastic screw spacer at the measured length and install it on the top and bottom mounting screws behind the flanges of the electrical fixture. (See the illustration above).
5. Now with the spacers attached, then place the electrical fixture back in the conduit box in the wall and affix it to the conduit box. You might want to put a piece of electrical tape over the heads of the conduit box mounting screws, as they could be resting on the backside of the glass switch plate, and might take the reflective paint off the back if they are touching too hard on a mirrored type plate, or you may want to ask for a flat head screw to hold the receptacle to the box in the wall.
6. Hold the glass plate up to the electrical fixture and check to make sure the fixture is fitting as flush as possible against to back of the glass switch plate. If it is not, the glass switchplate may bend in and break when you tighten it to the electrical fixture. We have an invention we call our Screwgard paintable gaskets that corrects the spacing behind the glass plate to get it as far back to the wall as possible and to miss the screw that holds the receptacle to the box in the wall.
7. Remember that the glass switchplate is flat on the backside unlike a normal switch plate which has a concaved back, and the receptacle will not come all the way out to the front of the glass switchplate, and this is normal, but there will be enough room to the plug in a device or to flip the switch.
8. If the glass switch plate does not bump up against the wall because your box in the wall may be out too far, you may need our regular acrylic gasket plate that takes up the distance between the wall and the back of the glass switch plate. You can find them on our website on the same page as where you order the light switch covers - outlet covers. You peel the yellow take and stick it to the backside of the glass switch plate before you attempt to tighten the screws for the wall plate.
9. This may all sound complicated, but it's really not, so take your time and your glass light switch covers - outlet covers will look great for years to come.
10. You may also want to choose any of the mirrored accessories for your project for that special touch.
Take your time and do it right, like these customers who have sent us photos of their kitchens and baths with great success, so see our Photo Gallery below with some great ideas for you to read about.
Here is some other information you might want to read about before you start the 2nd type of installation.
How to install using the new Screwgard Paintable Gasket.
1. First remove the blue plastic film by peeling a corner, and pulling it off. The blue film is to protect the paintable side to keep it clean before you paint that side of the Screwgard gasket.
2. You can use spray paint with several light coats, and let it dry in between coats. Or, brush on the paint, and latex paint is the easiest to work with for a brushing application, and again, several light coats.
3. Then after the paint is thoroughly dried on the painted side of the Screwgard gasket, place the gasket in the back of the glass switch, so you can see the color through the glass. No painting of the glass is needed with this gasket.
4. If you are using a color template, which is a cutout piece of colored card stock, cut to the exact configuration as the glass switch plate cover, and available in many colors. This is to eliminate all painting required.
5. Then place all two or three pieces together (Glass switch plate & painted Screwgard gasket, or if using a color template, put the Glass switch plate, the color template in the back, and then the Screwgard gasket, and then carefully place them onto the electrical receptacle, and insert the screws supplied through the glass switch plate front, and very carefully tighten the screws to the receptacle, but do not OVER-TIGHTEN the screws to the receptacle in the wall. This is glass, so tighten gently. It’s easy.
Clear Glass / Mirrored Glass / Frosted Glass / Gray GlassGlass Sizes
All glass products at 3/16th thick, and 5/16 on the bevel
(Singles-A, Single Outlets-B, Single Groundfaults-F, Single Blanks, etc.)
|3 1/2" wide by 5 1/4" high to|
(Doubles-C, Combo's-D, Double Groundfaults-K, Double blanks, etc.)
|5 1/4" wide by 5 1/4" high|
(Triples-E, Triple Groundfaults-J, Groundfault/Double Switch-Q, etc.)
|7 1/4" wide by 5 1/4" high|
(Quad Switches-L, Outlet Cover/Triple Switch-O, etc.)
|9" wide by 5 1/4" high|
(5-Switch-5S, 5-Groundfault/Rocker-5 GF/R)
|11" wide by 5 1/4" high|
(6-Switch-6S, 6-Groundfault/Rocker-6 GF/R)
|12 5/8" wide by 5 1/4" high|
Screwgards (Glass Switch Plates not included)
If you need to order Clear Glass Switch Plates Click Here
To order our New Color Templates, Click Here
Information about the extra holes you might see